After a fun night jamming with the Wadhams Waddlers, Lisa, Kevin and I
awoke hungry and ready for a hike in the high peaks. The initial
problem was solved with a trip to one of our favorite Adirondack
restaurants: Chair 6. Located just south of the village of Lake Placid,
it serves some of the finest breakfast food anywhere. We scarfed down
french toast, omelets and eggs Benedict.
The second
problem was quickly solved with a trip to the Cascade Mountain trail
head. We hiked up the steady incline and headed first to the peak of
Porter mountain (on a perpendicular ridge). While we were munching on
snacks and enjoying the view we met some Canadians who asked us to take
their picture while they spelled 2-0-1-2 with their bodies. We have some
pretty silly traditions too, so we can't judge.
After
satisfying ourselves with the view, we headed to the peak of Cascade
for a slightly higher vantage point. We could easily identify the
Olympic buildings from Lake Placid village but had a harder time
identifying the other peaks. Pitchoff Mountain was prominent across the
road.
We
hiked down carefully and went directly to the Keene Stewarts for malts
(it was Kevin's first!) and then went to the Keene dump for one of the
finest views of Keene valley!
It
was back to Wadhams for games and more music for the evening. It was a
great day climbing our first two Adirondack high peaks!
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
Paradox
One of the best things about a road trip in the Adirondacks is the
short driving time between destinations. We may have quite a record to
beat with our four mile trip from Schroon Lake to Paradox Lake! Our
destination was the state campground which was located on a peninsula
that separates the two larger parts of the lake.
The lake is named Paradox because when water becomes high, the flow of the river actually reverses direction.
On the first day we paddled the shoreline of the lake which included many different geologic curiosities - including this:
We paddled through the narrows and down the Schroon river until we ran into the construction of a new dam. The fish in the river seemed plentiful and a friendly camp owner on the river told us that the dam would include a fish ladder.
Returning to our campsite, we had spaghetti and pesto and went to bed early. When we awoke, it was hot and humid but we decided to hike Peaked Hill anyway.
Tom had fond memories of the view from the top. We huffed and sweated on a fairly easy trail due to the humidity and found that softwoods had grown in since he was last there thirty years ago.
There are thunderstorms in the forecast so we have an excuse to jam in Wadhams - huzzah!
The lake is named Paradox because when water becomes high, the flow of the river actually reverses direction.
On the first day we paddled the shoreline of the lake which included many different geologic curiosities - including this:
We paddled through the narrows and down the Schroon river until we ran into the construction of a new dam. The fish in the river seemed plentiful and a friendly camp owner on the river told us that the dam would include a fish ladder.
Returning to our campsite, we had spaghetti and pesto and went to bed early. When we awoke, it was hot and humid but we decided to hike Peaked Hill anyway.
Tom had fond memories of the view from the top. We huffed and sweated on a fairly easy trail due to the humidity and found that softwoods had grown in since he was last there thirty years ago.
There are thunderstorms in the forecast so we have an excuse to jam in Wadhams - huzzah!
Monday, July 16, 2012
Schroon
After a brief respite at home, we car topped the kayaks and
were bound for Schroon Lake with Tom. We would be meeting our friend Bill
Killon, a photographer for Adirondack Life. We arrived too early to set up camp
so we parked at the Eagle Point beach (where swimming is not permitted) and
geared up for a paddle on the northern part of Schroon Lake.
The
smell of cheeseburgers caused us to stop at the Schroon Town Beach for
lunch. We ate quickly, desiring to get back on the water. The
burgers were adequate but the fries were terrible…
Continuing north, we found the mouth of the Schroon River
which leads north to Paradox Lake, we followed it until it became too shallow
to dip a paddle. We also found a beaver lodge containing a ladder, dock board
and set of stairs!
When we returned to the sandbar at the mouth of the river,
Bill snapped pictures and we enjoyed a break from sitting. We waded in the warm
water, which was pleasant on the sandy shoal.
On the return trip, we found a wedding party stranded in a
motor boat. We couldn’t tow them or give up our paddles but we let them use our
cell phone. Unfortunately the cell phone generation doesn’t actually know phone
numbers, so they were not able to contact anyone who could help. We continued
on and eventually saw a party barge towing them to shore.
The next day, we took the kayaks to Goose Pond in the
Pharoah Lakes Wilderness. It was a sparkling, secluded lake with a loon
swimming. The kayak carry was strenuous, but worth it to get on the water. It
was intended to be a morning trip, but we spent the whole day!
On our third day, we paddled the southern part of the lake
and into the Schroon River. It didn’t take long, since we had already done so
much paddling. We headed for Scaroon Manor, the newest campground in New York
for another night of camping. Amy, Mike, Ben and Jean met us and we picnicked.
In the afternoon everyone went swimming (including Ben) and Lisa tried to teach
me how to roll a kayak. The 180 was easy but I have yet to master the 360 and I
swallowed quite a bit of Schroon Lake trying.
In the evening we headed for Pitkin’s Restaurant for a
chicken barbeque. It was a kitchy joint with lots of pie! Afterwards, we headed
for the town beach for a quick jam.
The next day was a quiet family day at the campground with
threatening skies. On our last morning at Schroon we paddled to the Adirondack
general store and found a delicious breakfast.
We’re off to Paradox Lake for a night…sounds like something
to contemplate.
Tuesday, July 10, 2012
Nehasane
Our first stop on our route north was the trailhead to Bald
(Rondaxe) Mountain, just north of Old Forge. The guidebook told us that it was
the easiest hike for the greatest reward. After a mile with teaser views along
the way, we found the fire tower with families picnicking around it. We enjoyed
the views of the Fulton chain and Little Moose Lake in the distance.
The Tamarack Café was our destination for hot turkey
sandwiches in Inlet. We decided that gravy was nature’s most perfect food.
Our real destination for the next few days would be Lake
Lila – a lake that we have been hearing about from friends and family for our
whole lives. The road to the lake access was marked with “15mph” and we were
not able to come close while avoiding the ruts, potholes, boulders and grand
canyons along the way.
After a brief carry, we were on one of the most magnificent
and pristine lakes in the Adirondack Park. Until 1979, it had one great camp on
its shore, “Nehasane,” which belonged to the Webb family. The camp was burned
when New York acquired the land and it became the largest lake in the park with
an entirely state-owned shoreline.
We followed the northern shore and found a campsite on a
promontory with a rocky shore that reminded us of the Maine coastline. After
pasta for dinner, we watched the lake while the sun got lower. Eventually we
went to bed.
The next morning we were excited to explore the lake. Once
our kayaks hit the water, we felt that we were seeing the Adirondacks in its
primeval. With campsites set back from the shore, and no buoys necessary due to
the motor restrictions, there was little sign on human activity.
To get a higher perspective of the lake, we paddled to the
trailhead to Fredrica Mountain. Despite some deer flies chasing us, we sat and
enjoyed the view from the rocky summit and snacked on granola bars. Oddly
enough, the same deer flies found us on the descent…
For the rest of the day we meandered around the shoreline
with a brief paddle down the Beaver River. We snacked and lounged in the sun.
When we got back to our campsite, we played cards on our rocks and went to bed
early.
The next morning we packed up our gear and after two treks
up the trail (one for gear, one for kayaks) we headed to Little Tupper Lake. We
got a short paddle in, but thunderstorms seemed to be brewing around us, so
we’ll have to come back to experience the rest of the lake.
We’re off to Wadhams for some fiddling and then we’re
Schroon Lake bound on Thursday for a much different camping experience.
Sunday, July 8, 2012
Atwell
Atwell Martin, nineteenth-century hermit of North Lake was
famous for his familiarity with the Black River headwaters and for eating
prodigious amounts of food. For the past few days, we have followed suit in
both categories.
Our first day at North Lake was a family day with members of
both sides of my parents’ family visiting for the Fourth of July. It never
rained, but looked like inclement weather for most of the day. Other than a
quick paddle to the Nat Foster Lodge and a short sail around the bay, we mainly
stayed home and visited.
The next day we packed the car and headed north on Route 28
to Woodgate. Our destination was a series of trails that lead to Gull Lake and
Chub Pond – two remote lakes. We took a seven mile loop trail and found ourselves
heading to the Gull Lake lean-to. It was a beautiful and remote site where we
lounged for most of the afternoon. Looking at the scenery made us appreciate
the remoteness of much of the western Adirondacks.
After a stop for Orange Blossom milkshakes, we packed the
kayaks with camping gear and went to the northernmost spot on the lake on the
North Branch of the Black River for a campsite in a picturesque hemlock grove.
We went back to the Nat Foster Lodge for lasagna and then had a tranquil
moonlight paddle back to our site where two bullfrogs belched us a lullaby.
The next day, we again stopped at the Nat Foster Lodge for
food and games and then packed the kayaks on the car for a trip to South Lake –
North Lake’s sister reservoir. We explored the shoreline and Raymond Brook, one
of the inlets to the lake. On the return trip we found a stiff wind and got
some exercise. It was back to camp for delicious enchiladas for us!
Our last day at North Lake was the laziest. The weather was
unsettled so we spent the day playing games, doing crosswords and fiddling.
However, we did check off a very important Adirondack experience with a
delicious marinated venison dinner, something Atwell Martin would have had
daily we think (thanks Pat!).
We’re back on the road and heading towards Lake Lila for some more paddling!
Tuesday, July 3, 2012
Blue Mountain
After a delicious waffle at the Bouchard-Hall’s, we put the
kayaks on the car and headed for Lincoln Pond where we would be meeting Tom for
a morning paddle. We started north and enjoyed the shoreline, which was full of
downed trees, stumps and beaver dams. In the clear water we could see perch,
sunfish, pike and even a turtle!
Turning around at the dam (which was designed and built by
Lisa’s great-grandfather), we headed back to the beach for some munchies and a
jam with guitar, harmonica and fiddle. We didn’t sound half bad by the third
time through each song…
We paddled under the bridge and heard the sweet sound of
“sailing, sailing..” and I quickly headed for shore. Hopping out of the kayak
as quickly as possible, I ran for the ice cream truck and got three orange
creamsicles – yum! We followed the shoreline on the south side of the lake and
admired the mountain beach in the distance.
We parted ways with Tom and headed for Ray Brook, home of
the famous “Tail o’ the Pup,” an iconic barbeque joint that has been in
operation since 1921. Pulled chicken, Texas brisket and fried pickles gave us
our fill as we listened to “Blues Noir” on the stage.
Our lodging for the night turned out to be at Lake Eaton, a
state campground where we found a secluded site on the water. Despite some
rain, we slept well.
In the morning we packed up our wet tent and headed for the
town of Blue Mountain Lake, where we would hike Blue Mountain. Arriving at the
fire tower on the summit we had a panoramic view of the area including Racquette
and Long lakes. We could see the high peaks in the distance with the
recognizable slides that we saw from Hurricane Mountain just the other day.
After our hike, we headed for the town beach in the village
and had a picnic (mmmm…Hormel chili). We put our kayaks in the water and went
to find an island with a good swimming rock. After a short trip, we quickly
found a swimming hole within view of the fire tower where we were standing just
hours earlier! We explored some islands and headed back to the town beach (with
a sign that says no loitering….what are you supposed to do at the beach?).
It’s off to North Lake for a few days, I’m sure that we will
have some great adventures there!
Sunday, July 1, 2012
Hurricane!
After a week at home, we packed the car and crossed Lake Champlain
via the Charlotte-Essex ferry. We were bound for Whallonsburg, in the
town of Essex. Our old-timey musical group, the Wadhams Waddlers would
be playing for a Lewis County literacy fundraiser at the Grange. If you
missed the show, it was by far one of the most entertaining shows that I
have ever attended.
We
awoke early the next day and found ourselves itching for a hike.
Looking at the map, we noticed that the trail to the fire tower on
Hurricane mountain was only a few miles away. With oatmeal raisin
cookies in our bellies for breakfast [thanks Jean], we headed up a steep
ascent. This was followed by a flat and muddy mile and then another
steep ascent.
Arriving
at the summit, we were stunned by the panoramic views of the high peaks
on one side and the Champlain Valley on the other. It seemed fitting
that we could see the hills in Charlotte and the highest mountains in
the Adirondacks on our first mountain hike of the trip.
After
an afternoon in Elizabethtown and Wadhams with our gracious hosts Kevin
and Liz, we attended a performance of "Careless Love" at the Depot
Theater in Westport. The stage is built inside the old freight room of
the train station. The train did go by once during the performance -
traditionally, they will stop the show but they were in the middle of a
sentimental musical number. It was a great show with each of the actors
playing a variety of instruments.
Tomorrow, the kayaks will hit the water!
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